David Bailey, Jean Shrimpton, 1961-2019

The relationship between the photographer and model reflected London as a global fashion capital and significantly influenced the visual language of the 1960s. Bailey and Shrimpton's professional and personal affinity proved transformative for their careers. Jean Shrimpton's natural presence and David Bailey's informal shooting style created images that felt touchable and real, moving away from the artificial poses of traditional fashion models. Bailey noted, "She was magic, and the camera loved her too... you only needed to shoot half a roll of film, and then you had it." Their four-year affair fueled creative chemistry that produced some of the most iconic fashion images of the era. Bailey's portraits of his muse remain an influential record of a pivotal moment when fashion photography shifted from formal studio arrangements to a more minimalist and spontaneous aesthetic that continues to influence visual culture today.

Bailey's platinum palladium photographs hold significant artistic and historical value by employing traditional photographic techniques with modern artistic expression. The platinum palladium process, with its distinctive and sensitive photographic printing technique of the highest museum grade, plays a crucial role in Bailey's work, appealing to his artistic sensibilities and contributing to the exceptional quality of his photographs.

The unique characteristics of the platinum palladium process are renowned for their ability to produce photographs with an exceptional range of tonal depth and subtlety. Unlike other photographic processes, platinum palladium prints do not have absolute blacks or whites; instead, they feature a rich spectrum of greys that provide an expressive character even in the deepest shadows. This quality allows for a more nuanced portrayal of subjects, which aligns well with Bailey's minimalist and high-tonal aesthetic.

Historically, platinum printing was favoured by many eminent photographers at the end of the 19th century due to its artistic potential; however, it fell out of favour due to the high cost of platinum during World War I. Today, platinum palladium printing remains a niche but highly valued technique for its unique aesthetic qualities and archival properties. The resurgence of the platinum-palladium technique in Bailey's practice underscores his commitment to exploring new artistic avenues and preserving historical photographic techniques.

Platinum palladium photographs are renowned for their archival longevity. The process involves embedding the platinum and palladium into the paper rather than coating it on the surface, resulting in prints that respond to light differently and are uniquely individual due to variations in handling during production. The material composition ensures the image does not fade with exposure to light or deteriorate over time. This stability is further enhanced by the fact that the metal is absorbed into the paper rather than lying on its surface as an emulsion, unlike silver-based processes. The unique method of creating platinum palladium photographs involves direct contact printing with large-format negatives, requiring a high degree of control over the final image's contrast and tone by varying the proportions of its material composition and exposure to intense ultraviolet light. This complex and delicate process entails each piece is considered unique in quality, adding to the value and uniqueness of the final photograph.

David Bailey is celebrated for his revolutionary impact on fashion photography and his iconic portraits throughout the decades. His platinum palladium photographs, imbued with a timeless quality, ensure that these works are preserved in perpetuity and considered unique pieces of art. The process, with its unique ability to capture the essence of his subjects with clarity and depth, enhances his portraits, making them not just photographs but enduring pieces of art. Bailey's use of platinum palladium photography significantly contributes to his artistic innovation, historical revival, and cultural impact, reflecting his broader influence on photography as an art form and a historical record.

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Post-War/Modern: Art at the OWO

Post-War/Modern: Art at the OWO

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David Bailey UK, 1938

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